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- Expedition Details : Itinerary & Route
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- Base camp
Elevation: 14,760 feet / 4500 meters
- Camp 1
Elevation: 17,870 feet / 5400 meters
- Camp 2
Elevation: 20,240 feet / 6170 meters
- Camp 3
Elevation: 22, 300 feet / 6800 meters
- Summit
Elevation: 24,751 feet / 7546 meters
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The route we climb is called the Tash route. It was named after the nearby
border town of Tashgergan and is probably the one that Eric Shipton attempted
in 1947 when he almost made the summit. As this route was only opened
to expditions in 2005, almost all the literature about Mustagata still
refers to the other route.
The Tash route has several advantages. Base camp is
slightly higher which helps with acclimatization. There are fewer teams
on the Tash route and base camp is cleaner and more hygienic. We can put
all our attention and energy towards climbing the mountain without worrying
about being over crowded. There are also fewer crevasses and the skiing
is sustained!
Throughout our many years of climbing Mustagata we have found that three
weeks is the ideal amount of time for most members to succesfully reach
the summit. We have a refined acclamitization routine and spare days for
bad weather.
The climb starts and ends in the city of Kashgar, China. See our Travel
& Visa page for how to get to Kasghar and travel dates. We are
glad to assist you with any of your travel needs. See our pre-climb
tour page if you are interested in exploring the old Silk Road town
of Kashgar and Shipton's Arch (largest natural arch in the world) a few
days before the climb begins.
| Weekday |
2011 |
2012 |
Schedule |
| Saturday |
02-July |
30-June |
Arrive Kashgar (Note that some travel options may not arrive Kashgar
on this day) |
| Sunday |
03-July |
01-July |
Kashgar / Pre-departure meeting - very important / Tour Kashgar |
| Monday |
04-July |
02-July |
Drive to acclimatization camp at Karakul Lake (11,800 feet / 3600
meters) |
| Tuesday |
05-July |
03-July |
Review mountain safety practices / Hike hills around Mustagata |
| Wednesday |
06-July |
04-July |
Walk to BC (4500 meters / 14,700 feet) |
| Thursday |
07-July |
05-July |
Rest day / Skills training |
| Friday |
08-July |
06-July |
Acclimatization Hike / Preparations for going higher |
| Saturday |
09-July |
07-July |
Hike to C1, return to BC |
| Sunday |
10-July |
08-July |
Hike to C1, sleep in C1 (5400 meters / 17,700 feet) |
| Monday |
11-July |
09-July |
Climb/ski towards C2 / Return to BC |
| Tuesday |
12-July |
10-July |
Rest day |
| Wednesday |
13-July |
11-July |
Hike to C1 / Sleep in C1 |
| Thursday |
14-July |
12-July |
Climb/ski towards C2 / Sleep in C2 (6170 meters / 20,200 feet) |
| Friday |
15-July |
13-July |
Return to C1 / Sleep in C1 |
| Saturday |
16-July |
14-July |
Return to BC |
| Sunday |
17-July |
15-July |
Rest day |
| Monday |
18-July |
16-July |
Hike to C1 / Sleep in C1 |
| Tuesday |
19-July |
17-July |
Climb/ski to C2 / Sleep in C2 |
| Wednesday |
20-July |
18-July |
Climb/ski to C3 / Sleep in C3 (6800 meters / 22,300 feet) |
| Thursday |
21-July |
19-July |
Summit (7,546 meters / 24,751 feet) |
| Friday |
22-July |
20-July |
Summit / contingency day |
| Saturday |
23-July |
21-July |
Summit / contingency day |
| Sunday |
24-July |
22-July |
Summit / contingency day |
| Monday |
25-July |
23-July |
Hike from BC to vehicles, drive back to Kashgar |
| Tuesday |
26-July |
24-July |
Depart Kashgar |
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