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Our leaders have led expeditions to Mustagata since 1998 and have successfully and safely led our members to the summit over ten times. Our leaders know the route better than anyone else. They are some of the most experienced high-altitude guides for Asia.
 Jon
Otto is a mountain guide, expedition planner and
leader, author, and travel consultant. Jon
speaks fluent Mandarin Chinese and has traveled extensively in western
and southwest China, including Tibet and many remote and border
regions such as the Shaksgam valley around K2. His organizational
skills are superb, and he has developed extensive contacts throughout
China and Tibet. Jon has climbed Mustagata nine times (summated eight) and pioneered two routes up the mountain, including the one we climb.
Jon learned to rock climb at the age of 15 and started ice climbing
in college. He spent a year studying in Beijing where he joined
the university’s climbing club. In the summer of 1991 Jon
took part in the club’s first expedition to climb Mustagata
(7546 meters). Since then, Jon has climbed Mustagata nine times
(summated eight times) and led two new routes, most notably the first ascent of the East
Ridge.
Jon went on to lead many expeditions throughout China including
the first western ascent of Mt. Nojin Tangla (7116 meters) in Tibet,
the first ascent of Half Ridge Peak in Sichuan, he pioneered a new
route up the rocky West ridge of Mt. Yala (5820 meters), and led
the second ascent up the Southeast ridge of Mt. Siguniang (6250
meters). In 2000 Jon co-led a large international expedition to
Cho-Oyu (8201 meters) the 6th highest mountain in the world, and
continues to lead climbs on various 5000-7000 meter peaks in China
and Tibet. |
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 Arnold Coster is a professional Himalayan mountain guide. Born and raised in the Netherlands, it was no small feat for Arnold to become a leading guide on the tallest mountains in the world, including Mt. Everest. He learned to climb when he was 16 in Verdon, France, and continued to climb anything he could in the Alps, very quickly becoming a strong and skilled alpine climber.
Through a chance meeting, Arnold starting working for Summit Climb, which gave him the opportunity to work on Himalayan peaks. Arnold found this to be his passion and he has never looked back since. He went on to organize and lead expeditions to Manaslu, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Lhakpa Ri, Mustagata, Khan Tengri, Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro, amongst other peaks. Arnold has led five trips to Mount Everest and summated two times.
Arnold met his wife while climbing. Maya Sherpa is from Nepal and was the first Nepalese woman to climb Ama Dablam, Pumori and Cho Oyu. They live in Nepal and have a young son. Arnold thinks himself very lucky to have Sherpa uncles and cousins, the best climbers in the world. Arnold is a mild mannered, humorous, and highly professional leader who enjoys sharing his experiences with people from all over the world. His passion is helping others live their mountain dreams. |
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 Ted
Callahan is a seasoned mountaineer who enjoys exploring
mountain regions in the remote parts of the world. He is a strong
and steadfast leader with a great, and slightly sarcastic, sense
of humor. He started as a river guide and then moved over into climbing.
Ted has led expeditions in North & South America, Europe, Russia,
& China. He has spent much time in the secluded mountain areas
of Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan and has extensively explored
the little-known Pamirs mountain range in these regions.
Ted has a master’s degree from Stanford University in East
Asian Studies and a PhD in anthropology. He speaks Chinese, Spanish,
Nepali, Dari, Pashto, Russian, and Kyrgyz. Ted has climbed Mustagata
twice and knows the area well. |
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